Gown Alterations 101

Hear ye, hear ye! To all brides who fear the need for alterations to your fab frock, fear ye not!

We receive a lot of questions from brides who are very concerned about alterations to their gown, especially when purchasing the gown from a third party or a sample gown from a bridal salon with a no return policy. Wedding gowns, roughly 99.5% of the time, will require some type of alteration to ensure the perfect fit. This is completely normal and should be expected. Brides can get spooked by the concept of alterations because to everyone who isn't a professional seamstress, it seems pretty impossible to retain the beauty of the garment after retooling sections of it. That's why we'll start with the key word in that last sentence...professional.

Professionals will guide the way. If you purchase a gown from a third party or a salon who won't alter your sample, keep in mind that you will want to seek out a professional seamstress to do the alterations to your couture gown. This means you will want someone who works regularly on bridal gowns and/or high end cocktail gowns - not merely the hems and inseams of ready-to-wear garments.

Wedding gowns are fabricated in high end, delicate materials (lace, silk, satin, beading, tulle, chiffon, need we say more?) You will want the expertise of someone who has done quite a few gowns prior to yours, and this means you will end up paying a little extra for this expertise. However, you will get what you pay for when it comes to alterations, and it is always in a bride's best interest to add a few extra dollars to this budget item. Remember that fit is just as important as fashion on the Big Day.

Where do I find a professional seamstress? Outside of getting a referral from friends or family, a great resource for a professional seamstress is a mid-priced salon. In today's economy, many boutiques will take gown alteration work without requiring the purchase of the gown in their salon.

A mid-price boutique is a much more cost-effective resource than a high-end salon, as the gown price points within the salon will generally dictate how much the alterations will be. You will get the expertise you'll want but at a more reasonable price, without sacrificing quality.

What are standard issue alterations?

Hemming the hemline. A hemline is practically a definite alteration. Gowns are manufactured to accommodate a wide variety of heights, and a standard hollow to hem measurement is 59", which roughly translates into a 5'11" bride (in heels). The only way to avoid this alteration is to special order the gown from a salon to be a specific length, which is most definitely an added expense. Taking up the hem on a gown is a very straightforward alteration and should not be feared. You will want your heels prior to making this alteration. The gown should just barely graze the floor, showing just a smidge of toe. All gowns will stretch just a tad throughout the Big Day, so be sure not to leave too much length to keep tripping at bay.

Busting out. But what about the girls?! There are various solutions to this tricky dilemma. Most gowns will accommodate some type of support option, such as cups, inserts, or a built in bra. The option will depend on how the dress is constructed and its structure. In terms of construction, backless or halter gowns will be restricted to inserts or cups which are simply attached with a couple of stitches to the bust. In terms of structure, the more substantial the material, the more heavy duty the support option. Silks with minimal layering will be tougher to reinforce, whereas gowns fabricated in lace, tulle or silk/satin blends will keep the girls high with more supportive built-in solutions. Your professional seamstress will certainly know all the options that will work for you and your gown. Ultimately the girls will be nice and secure, keeping you nice and secure.

Going from tall to small. There is a general rule of thumb to alterations, which is 'two sizes up, one size down.' Gowns generally cannot be let out more than one full dress size. There are exceptions, where gowns can be sized smaller than two sizes if need be. The biggest concern is when the dress has some sort of symmetry or symmetrical pattern to it which would definitely limit its ability to be tailored down multiple sizes. Keep in mind that dresses with patterns can only be tailored a limited amount before the aesthetic of the gown is compromised.

Bottom line. In a nutshell, gowns are meant to be altered, and alterations should not overly concern brides. Keeping in mind these plot points above will keep you on budget and in vogue.