Gown Alterations 101

Hear ye, hear ye! To all brides who fear the need for alterations to your fab frock, fear ye not!

We receive a lot of questions from brides who are very concerned about alterations to their gown, especially when purchasing the gown from a third party or a sample gown from a bridal salon with a no return policy. Wedding gowns, roughly 99.5% of the time, will require some type of alteration to ensure the perfect fit. This is completely normal and should be expected. Brides can get spooked by the concept of alterations because to everyone who isn't a professional seamstress, it seems pretty impossible to retain the beauty of the garment after retooling sections of it. That's why we'll start with the key word in that last sentence...professional.

Professionals will guide the way. If you purchase a gown from a third party or a salon who won't alter your sample, keep in mind that you will want to seek out a professional seamstress to do the alterations to your couture gown. This means you will want someone who works regularly on bridal gowns and/or high end cocktail gowns - not merely the hems and inseams of ready-to-wear garments.

Wedding gowns are fabricated in high end, delicate materials (lace, silk, satin, beading, tulle, chiffon, need we say more?) You will want the expertise of someone who has done quite a few gowns prior to yours, and this means you will end up paying a little extra for this expertise. However, you will get what you pay for when it comes to alterations, and it is always in a bride's best interest to add a few extra dollars to this budget item. Remember that fit is just as important as fashion on the Big Day.

Where do I find a professional seamstress? Outside of getting a referral from friends or family, a great resource for a professional seamstress is a mid-priced salon. In today's economy, many boutiques will take gown alteration work without requiring the purchase of the gown in their salon.

A mid-price boutique is a much more cost-effective resource than a high-end salon, as the gown price points within the salon will generally dictate how much the alterations will be. You will get the expertise you'll want but at a more reasonable price, without sacrificing quality.

What are standard issue alterations?

Hemming the hemline. A hemline is practically a definite alteration. Gowns are manufactured to accommodate a wide variety of heights, and a standard hollow to hem measurement is 59", which roughly translates into a 5'11" bride (in heels). The only way to avoid this alteration is to special order the gown from a salon to be a specific length, which is most definitely an added expense. Taking up the hem on a gown is a very straightforward alteration and should not be feared. You will want your heels prior to making this alteration. The gown should just barely graze the floor, showing just a smidge of toe. All gowns will stretch just a tad throughout the Big Day, so be sure not to leave too much length to keep tripping at bay.

Busting out. But what about the girls?! There are various solutions to this tricky dilemma. Most gowns will accommodate some type of support option, such as cups, inserts, or a built in bra. The option will depend on how the dress is constructed and its structure. In terms of construction, backless or halter gowns will be restricted to inserts or cups which are simply attached with a couple of stitches to the bust. In terms of structure, the more substantial the material, the more heavy duty the support option. Silks with minimal layering will be tougher to reinforce, whereas gowns fabricated in lace, tulle or silk/satin blends will keep the girls high with more supportive built-in solutions. Your professional seamstress will certainly know all the options that will work for you and your gown. Ultimately the girls will be nice and secure, keeping you nice and secure.

Going from tall to small. There is a general rule of thumb to alterations, which is 'two sizes up, one size down.' Gowns generally cannot be let out more than one full dress size. There are exceptions, where gowns can be sized smaller than two sizes if need be. The biggest concern is when the dress has some sort of symmetry or symmetrical pattern to it which would definitely limit its ability to be tailored down multiple sizes. Keep in mind that dresses with patterns can only be tailored a limited amount before the aesthetic of the gown is compromised.

Bottom line. In a nutshell, gowns are meant to be altered, and alterations should not overly concern brides. Keeping in mind these plot points above will keep you on budget and in vogue.

To split or not to split (the dress)...?

Recently, I have come across more and more message board postings by brides seeking another bride who is interested in splitting the cost of the same designer gown. Clearly the intent is to acquire that dream gown, but at half the cost.

In a phrase, we can only say Oy Vey.

There are so many pitfalls to consider in this sort of transaction, that we feel compelled to remind these brides to address the following challenges before entering into this sort of bridal partnership.

Who goes first? This is going to be a BIG question to ponder. Conceivably, the person who goes first gets the better end of the deal. The dress will definitely be in brand new condition, and all the alterations will be tailor made to the first bride who walks down the aisle. Weddings are a great big party, and as we know parties can be hard on any dress, especially one with a train and constructed in the most delicate of materials.

Keep in mind that gowns will have definite wear and tear after a wedding. Even the most careful bride will discover pulls and/or tears. Gowns will always have some discoloration at the hemline. If the ceremony is on grass or in sand, count on more dirt than usual. In most instances, these signs of wear and tear can be cleaned and mended, refreshing the gown to a like new state. However, there is always a cost associated with these fixes. Budget no less than $250 to have a gown professionally cleaned, and another $150 in repairs to be safe. If these costs end up lower, then you can consider it a pleasant surprise, but it's always better to over budget in this regard.

The bride who gets to 'go first' should bear the burden of the cost, and a fair split would be 65/35 of the retail price. Keep in mind to also consider sales tax, alteration expenses, and those repair and cleaning costs covered by Bride #2.

Red wine anyone? As mentioned, this is THE party of your life, and there will be copious amounts of red wine to enjoy at your Big Day. If Uncle Larry gets a little too rowdy at the bar and bumps into Bride #1 with a glass of merlot, what is Bride #2 going to do? This is where things get harry, because life is unpredictable at its best.

A contract should be drawn up between the two brides to cover these sorts of events. Because in most instances the brides will be strangers to one another prior to this transaction, it is best that both parties protect themselves in case the most unfortunate of circumstances comes to fruition - the gown is unwearable.

Undoing alterations. In a lot of instances, gown alterations can be reversed. The general rule of thumb for alterations is one size up, or two sizes down. The brides definitely need to be neck-and-neck in terms of their sizing for this partnership to work. Also, don't forget that height is key! If Bride #1 is 5'2" in heels, and Bride #2 is 5'10", well, disaster is inevitable.

Get clear about each other's measurements, including height with heels. Discuss whether it is possible to do alterations so they are completely reversible, making each bride responsible for her own alteration costs. If this isn't possible, get really comfortable knowing whether the alterations made for Bride #1 will also accommodate Bride #2.

Resale proceeds. Bride #2 could potentially benefit from selling the gown after her event. This is something Bride #1 might want to think about and discuss. Should each bride split the proceeds 50/50 if the gown is sold to Bride #3? Yet again, another question that should make these brides go 'hmmm.....'.

Knowledge is power. These sorts of transactions really don't bode well for a positive outcome. However, if you have your heart set on a gown that is not readily available by way of a resale alternative, and you discover another bride who has her heart set on the same gown, this partnership could work with the right amount of due diligence and documentation. With budgets tightening, protect yourself and your financial investment. It's always worth the extra time to be sure you're making the right decision.